How Is Sterling Silver Jewelry Made?

Sterling silver jewelry has enjoyed an upsurge of popularity, mainly because it is possible to work the metal alloy into intricate designs peculiarly beautiful as jewelry at a reasonable price. As a consequence, it is likely that at least one piece of jewelry in the jewel boxes of most women, and even some men, is made of sterling silver. Sterling silver is typically a mix of 92.5% silver and 7.5% of other metals, often copper.

Silver is a malleable, white metal also referred to as argentums, hence its chemical symbol Ag. Native silver occurs naturally, but most commercially available silver is produced from refining gold, lead, copper and zinc using an electrolytic refining process and the use of the Parkes process in lead refining. Most of the silver is produced in Australia, China, Poland, Chile, Peru and Mexico. The last two countries have been producing silver for world consumption since the mid 1500s and are still the major producers of the metal.

How is it Made?

The practice of extracting silver has been in place since the 3rd Century BC in Egypt, Babylon, Mesopotamia, Rome and Greece. Because of its malleability, it was the metal of choice for displays of power and wealth in cathedrals and palaces all over Europe and Asia, and was at one time used as currency before it was displaced by gold in terms of monetary value

Fine silver is defined as having a purity of at least 99.9%. In its pure form, silver does not react with oxygen and therefore does not tarnish. But because silver is very soft for a metal, it is not used for purposes in which malleability is a disadvantage, such as in tableware and jewelry where retention of the form and intricacies of design enhances the value of the item. The addition of hardier metals such as copper makes working the silver much easier for esthetic products. However, sterling silver using copper as an alloy does have a tendency to tarnish and to develop firescale or firestain, which is a red or purple stain that develops in alloys containing copper. Recent variations in the mix of sterling silver that aims to prevent these side-effects involves the use of other materials including zinc, germanium, boron, silicon or platinum. The use of platinum as an alloy in various formulations has gained some interest in the US when it was introduced in 2003. It produced sterling silver that is tarnish resistant and harder than the silver-copper. However, because platinum is significantly more expensive than copper, the latter metal remains largely the industry standard still.

Other attempts to solve the tarnish problem focused on ways to treat the surface of sterling silver rather than change the alloy. Some surface treatments include electroplating with nickel or rhodium, sputter-applied coatings of aluminum or niobium, oxide coatings of magnesium or zirconium or electrochemical treatment. Organic coating using organic inhibitors are also presented for protecting sterling silver that are stored or on display. Most of these techniques are ranked based on the actual protection they provide, thickness and durability of the coating, the availability and ease of the process involved, ease of removal, environmental concerns and the cost. Sterling silver is more durable than pure silver, but it is malleable enough to be hand-worked with some simple tools. Numerous books and online articles are available for DIY craft projects in jewelry making and retailers abound that provide the necessary materials to make charming pieces from earrings to bracelets.

Typical tools that are available in craft shops or the hardware include jeweler's saw and saw blades, chain-nosed pliers, flush cutters, center punch or a big nail, permanent markers, hammer, round-nosed pliers, a small power drill with a drill press attachment, 0.8mm jewelers drill bits and an anvil or steel block. For polishing and refining, ultra fine steel wool and files are usually sufficient.

The materials to work with depend on the type of jewelry, and may include sterling silver beads or sheets, jewelry wire, sterling silver clasp, crimp beads, sterling leverback ear wires, balled silver headpins, sterling silver disc charm, tumbled garnet beads, cubic zirconia, or any variety of semi-precious stones. A charming, back-to-the-1970s curio is the spoon ring, but it will require the use of sterling silverware, and the use of a mandrel, a narrow metal cone marked with ring sizes.

The following is template for making a simple pair of earrings suitable for everyday wear.

Materials/Tools	24 gauge 1” x 6” sterling silver sheet Jeweler's saw Number 2/0 and 4/0 fine saw blades Scribe (optional) Wooden board French ear wires Flat-bottomed cubic zirconia, colored stones (optional) Superglue (Optional
Step 1	For light earrings, purchase one piece 24 gauge 1” x 6” sterling silver sheet. This is enough to make 3 pairs of earrings, depending on the side of the design.
Step 2	The chosen design can be etched on the silver sheet with a scribe (a tool for marking metal) or printed on paper and taped onto the sheet.
Step 3	With a jeweler's saw with a solid frame, Number 2/0 and 4/0 fine saw blades, start cutting into the silver sheet, starting with a forward tilt to the blade. Avoid jerky, rough movements; the blade should be applied with continuous even strokes, especially on the curves. You can get leverage by using a wooden board with a hole which can accommodate the design while cutting.
Step 4	Attach the French ear wires to the cut sterling silver by drilling a very small hole with a hand-held drill with a #64 small drill bit. Use fine sand paper to lightly smoothen any sharp edges of the design. A buffing machine may be used to polish the finished product, but a chamois cloth will also work.
Step 5	Bling can be added to the earrings with cubic zirconia or colored stones with flat bottoms using superglue.

Sterling silver jewelry-making is a fun way for the artistically handy. The wide variety of available materials makes it a joy to create. However, for the less accomplished, sterling silver jewelry of all shapes, sizes and functions are available just as easily. High-quality jewelry can be had ranging from sterling silver wedding ring sets to earrings to necklaces and bracelets from the simplest wedding band to the most intricate necklace designs. The price ranges for most pieces are also within the reach of most people, as sterling silver jewelry is currently valued at about 1/45th the value of gold.

Choosing Sterling Silver Jewlery

The quality of sterling silver products is based on a set of standards referred to as hallmarks. Most countries develop their own hallmarking systems, but usually keeping with the principal sterling silver alloy combination of 92.5% pure silver to 7.5% other metal that has been in use since the 14th century. The usual markings found in high-quality sterling silver jewelry include sterling, sterling silver, Ster or .925. The shape of the mark varies from country to country, and in the US, the markings are also unique to a manufacturer. It is also illegal for jewelry sold in the US to be marked as sterling silver, sterling, or using the abbreviation Ster. only if it contains less than 92.5 percent pure silver.

The lack of marking in sterling silver jewelry makes it difficult for the purchaser to determine if the silver alloy used is of the desired purity. It will also prevent identification of the company that made the jewelry or the date and location of the manufacture. Unless these considerations are of little importance to you, then require that each piece of jewelry you purchase is properly marked.

Caring for Sterling Silver Jewelry

Currently, there is no definitive solution to the development of tarnish and firescales in sterling silver jewelry. The only solution is proper care of the jewelry. Sterling silver jewelry develops a beautiful, mellow patina when worn frequently, and jewelry that is often worn is less likely to tarnish. However, for a bright and shiny look, it is necessary to perform regular cleaning and polishing of the jewelry with a soft cloth and products specifically formulated for sterling silver, preferably a detergent with no phosphate. Toothpaste is not advisable as it is too rough.

It would be advisable to avoid too-vigorous buffing and polishing to prevent damage to the jewelry. Sterling silver is still comparatively soft even with the addition of more durable metals, and with older pieces care should be observed to preserve the patina of the genuine antique. Wheel polishing, a machine used by professional jewelers, is only used when the jewelry is heavily tarnished or corroded.

Using a cloth pouch to separate the sterling silver pieces from other jewelry will help prevent scratches, and exposure to household chemicals should also be minimized. Some cloth bags are treated to prevent the jewelry from tarnishing. A cool, dry environment will further inhibit oxidation. If tarnish becomes visible, it is best to remove it at once to keep it from setting into the metal.

A homemade cleaning technique for sterling silver jewelry is to use salt and baking soda in a tin foil-covered container filled with hot water. Place the silver pieces in the container allowing them to touch, and soak for at most five minutes. Rinse and pat dry with a cotton cloth.

At one point in history, silver was held to be of more value than gold. Many believed that it had mystic powers and was associated with the moon. It has been suggested that it has influence over the mind and emotions of its wearer or possessor, especially love and healing. Indeed, silver has medical applications because of its malleability and aseptic properties. Later on, it lost its monetary but not its emotional value, and many people find the beauty of sterling silver appealing. It seems appropriate, then, that sterling silver continues to play an important role in bringing beauty and pleasure in today’s homes, much like it did in its heyday.

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